China has witnessed in recent years a surge of enthusiasm for so-called ¡®patriotic tourism¡¯, tourism which takes Chinese people to cities and sites of a particular significance to their country¡¯s history. This type of tourism affords people the opportunity to know more about their culture, and their national heritage.
This phenomenon is not without interest for foreigners touring Beijing. The Chinese capital offers an amazing array of unique historical sites, such as the Wen Tianxiang Memorial Hall in the Jiaodaokou area, in downtown Beijing. This memorial hall is a must-see venue for whoever wants to learn more about the country, its culture, and its people.
Getting to Wen Tianxiang Memorial Hall is quite easy. Simply take subway line #5, and get off at the ZHANGZIZHONG LU station. There, spare a moment to admire the 5 large bronze statues erected in the station. They depict fierce scenes of the Changshan Battle in World War II, where General Zhang Zizhong, a renowned army commander of the then-ruling Nationalist Party of China, fell in the fight against the Japanese invader.
Exit the station trough Exit A, and turn right into ZHANGZIZHONG LU (Zhang Zizhong Street).
ZHANGZIZHONG LU (Zhangzizhong St.)
Zhangzizhong St. is becoming popular ZHANGZIZHONG LU, as its name suggests, was renamed after General Zhang Zizong for his remarkable contribution to the country¡¯s liberation course. Born in 1891 in Shandong province in Northern China, the general began his military career very early. Starting as a soldier, he soon distinguished himself by his bravery and leadership, and works all his way up to become commander-in-chief of the 33rd Army of the Kuomingtang (the Nationalist Party of China).
The last battle he fought took place at Zaoyi in Hubei province, where a defensive campaign brought his and the enemy¡¯s armies in a face-to-face engagement. Zhang Zizong and his soldiers were determined ¡®to fight till the last man of us, and last drop of our blood¡¯. And so they did. After hours of raging gunfire exchanges, then hand-to-hand combat, the General and his men laid down their lives for their country. His bravery won him universal honor from his countrymen, and the respect of the enemy. He was the highest-ranked military officer of the nation to die in the war. Premier Zhou Enlai later described him in these terms: ¡®His righteousness, loyalty, and devotion persist as the soul for our men and women in uniform¡¯.
As you walk down the street, take a look around. The street and the neighborhood are quite photogenic. There are a couple of traditional-styled residences which used to house several royals during the imperial era. They are not open to visitors, unfortunately.
The area is also home to a theater named Rui Fu Theater, where Peking opera representations are staged every Sunday from 2:00 pm to 5:00 pm, with a program change every week. Though opera performances are played by well-known entertainers, the entrance fee is unbelievably low at just RMB 10 per person. There is not a cheaper seat in town.
If you are only interested in the Wen Tianxiang Memorial Hall however, just skip the theater altogether and push forward.
You will soon reach the Former Office Buildings of the War and Navy Departments of the Qing Dynasty, on the right side of ZHANGZIZHONG LU (Zhangzizong Street). Though not open to the public, the place still attracts scores of passers-by daily who merely want to see what embodies one of the first efforts by the imperial government to modernize a then under-developed country.
In 1901, reckoning that China was facing an imminent threat of colonization, the Qing government decided to engineer an overhaul of its administration, and to initiate a ¡®New Deal¡¯. As part of the overall plan were born the War Department, then the Navy Department. Both played important roles in the effort deployed nationwide to build a strong and modern China. They stand today as both a wake-up call for continuing reforms, and a remembrance for that unprecedented national campaign.
Walk onward and you will soon reach the intersection with JIAODAOKOU DONGDAJIE (Jiaodaokou East St). Turn right here. As you push your way through the crowds, take a look around. Though an older section of Beijing, the Jiaodaokou area seems to have locked itself onto the list of premium shopping locations for beautiful clothes and handbags.
About 150 yards down the street, you will meet the intersection with FUXUE HUTONG. The Chinese term Hutong means ancient alleyway. Turn right into the Hutong.
Your first stop is a ¡®name-giving house¡¯ called Zheng Ming Yuan. Name-giving in China is a real skill, as the Chinese believe a good name can bring good fortune throughout one¡¯s life. If you have a few dollars to spend, step in. Just give the owner your birth date, and then wait for 20 minutes to be revealed your brand-new ¡®Chinese name¡¯!
Stroll onward to the last leg of this walk into Chinese history ¨C the Wen Tianxiang Memorial Hall.
The Hall opens its doors from 9:00 am to 4:00 pm. The entrance fee is a modest RMB 5.
Wen Tianxiang Memorial Hall
Wentianxiang Memorial Hall, a longing heart to return! The Hall (in fact, a temple) was named in honor of renowned scholar Wen Tianxiang. He lived during the Southern Song Dynasty, and his name has become synonymous of loyalty and patriotism. The temple was a quiet refuge from the ¡®New and Great¡¯ Beijing being built around it.
A young Wen passed the imperial examination as the best Jinshi scholar, and was awarded a post in the government. With his achievements in improving people¡¯s life, he worked his way up to become Prime Minister of the country in his later years.
After the invasion by Mongolian nomads swarming from the North in 1270 AD--they succeeded the Song Dynasty as rulers of China--Wen immediately led his army into battle against the nomadic invaders. He saved his Emperor¡¯s life. He was captured by the enemy in 1278, detained, and tortured. As the enemy apparently failed to force him to cave in and sell out, they killed him in 1283. Some of his well-know poems still inspire his country fellowmen even today. His last words were: ¡®I have done all I could for my country, there is nothing to say¡¯.
Though the temple occupies only a small area, the various relics housed inside--such as Wen¡¯s manuscripts, stone tablets, and relic couplets--are worth your visit. Remember to look at the jujube tree said to have been planted by Wen himself in the backyard. The branches noticeably lean southward, symbolizing the longing of the Prime Minister to return to his home country.
How to Return
After your visit, retrace your steps back to JIAODAOKOU NANDAJIE. Walk North along the street till you reach its intersection with JIAODAOKOU DONGDAJIE. Turn right here.
Though Beijing¡¯s inner city traffic is notoriously bad, this street seems to be an exception. There is a variety of shops selling all kinds of merchandise: musical instruments, furniture, and amazingly enough, traditional local delicacies. Stroll eastwards for 10 minutes, and you will reach the BEIXINQIAO subway station of line #5.
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