Xuanwu district, a renowned business district since ancient times, offers some of the most admirable sightseeing spots in Beijing: Baoguo Si (Compensate the Country Temple), a monastery hosting a 400-year-old antique bazaar; Niujie Mosque, the oldest and biggest mosque in town; and the 1300 year-old Fayuan Temple (Temple of the Origin of Dharma) where you may be allowed to participate in daily scripture chanting.
Follow us on this short and pleasurable walk to discover some of the local ancient treasures.
Baoguo Si (Compensate the Country Temple)
Initially built in the Liao Dynasty as a Buddhist temple, Baoguo Si underwent a large-scale reconstruction in 1465 during the Ming Dynasty to house a member of the royal family. At the time, it was renowned for its high pavilion which offered an immense view of the city, drawing the literati to go aloft, admire the scenery, and write a poem off the cuff.
By the early Qing dynasty, the temple had already become a popular bazaar for books and flowers. In their spare time the locals liked to shoot breeze here. Scholars who came from across the country to take the imperial examination never bothered to search elsewhere for books they might need. And even officials would not fail to visit from time to time.
Despite ups and downs throughout history, the bazaar survived and prospered. Today, it has expanded to include an antique market, a souvenirs and gifts market, and a stamp collection market. Traders there sell miscellaneous items: jade, coins, Buddha statues, calligraphy works and paintings, to name but a few.
Though fake antiques are a sight at the bazaar, it is not hard to find the ¡®genuine ones¡¯: look for princely high price tags. The vendors are enthusiastic and sometimes pushy, so hold your pocket tightly closed and feel free to only admire!
If you do have dollars to spend however, spend them at the souvenir market, where they sell the kinds of Chairman Mao products you cannot find anywhere else: from hats to statues, from badges to bags. Prices are affordable.
Pass from stand to stand at your leisure. The bazaar opens its doors every day, with a big day on Thursday. Vendors here are friendly, and easy to engage. Though many of them speak a little English, but it helps a lot if you write down the price you expect to pay and show it as you bargain. The products sold here are not as expensive as they look, so bargain hard!
By the way, there are carts just outside the temple, serving a variety of traditional Beijing snacks quite popular among the locals. Don¡¯t miss the opportunity to sample some, as these carts are becoming a rarity in town.
Exit Baoguo Si, and turn onto GUANGANMEN NEIDAJIE (Guanganmen Inner St.). You are going east. As you walk onward, you will notice an amazing array of restaurants. They serve all kinds of regional cuisines, and some of them boast they are ¡®one of the best¡¯ dining deals in the town. Should you want to try hotpot, there is Ma La You Huo (Spiciness Temptation); for Korean Barbecue, go to Ming Yue San Qian Li (Shining Moon); and for Sichuan dishes, don¡¯t miss Chen A Po.
Soon, you will reach the intersection with Niu Jie (Niu St.). Turn right here. As you walk in, your eyes will quickly meet with various dome-shaped buildings with an exotic touch. This neighborhood has hosted the largest Muslim community in Beijing since hundreds of years, and other ethnic minorities are drawn to it.
Within minutes, you will reach the ancient Niujie Mosque on the left. Purchase a ticket for RMB 2 to enter.
The Niujie Mosque
The mosque, the oldest of its kind in Beijing, was initially constructed in 996 AD, during the Song Dynasty. It underwent several renovations throughout history, and now houses the Xuanwu District Islamic Association, while still serves the largest Muslim community in the town.
The mosque is open to the public all the day. One of its salient features is the blend of architectures combining both Chinese and Middle-east influences. The main building -- ¡®the Worshipping Hall¡¯ ¡ª is where daily Koran praying is held. Notice the two stone tablets in front of the hall: they bear the imperial orders given by a Ming emperor to renovate the mosque in 1487 and 1496.
In the backyard on the right, there are two tombs where two Persian imams are buried; one of them came to China in 1270 on a preaching mission. There is also an ancient, giant bowl, which is used to boil food during the Islamic Fast-breaking Festival.
In addition to a variety of charming halls and pavilions, beautiful flowers and plants, the mosque also offers a quiet refuge from the bustling surroundings. Moslem folks are much friendlier than they look like. With a little help from some of them, I took several pictures from inside the worshipping hall, a place usually forbidden to non-Muslims.
After a good touring around, it¡¯s time to leave. Exit the mosque, and continue onward. Minutes later, you will reach the intersection with NANHENG XIJIE. Turn left. The street is known to host the China Islamic Association. Soon, you will see on the left the 1,000-year long Fayuan Si temple and the open ground in front of it.
The entrance fee is RMB 5.
Fayuan Si (Temple of the Origin of Dharma)
Initially called Minzhong Si (Temple of Loyalty and Patriotism), this monastery was constructed in 696 by a Tang emperor to commemorate soldiers who laid down their lives in a ten-year campaign to recover Northeastern China from the Korean invaders. In 1734, it was converted to a Buddhist Temple, and took on its current name of Fayuan Si.
The oldest temple in Beijing, the monastery houses a large variety of unique treasures. The main hall --- Minzhong Ge ¡ª in the second courtyard features a stone tablet from the Tang Dynasty. The Fa Tang in the third courtyard houses a 10 meter-long wood carving of the Laying Buddha, the largest of its kind in Beijing.
In the first courtyard Daxiong Baodian is the place where daily scripture chanting and regular Buddhist rituals are held. I found it amazing that they would give free Buddhist books to the tourists, and allow them to participate in their ritual activities. The monks are all easy to engage, and they stick to a strict Buddhist discipline.
By the way, if you happen to visit in April, don¡¯t miss the Lilac Admiring Festival, when the locals flock to the temple to admire the lilacs bursting all around the place.
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