Xuanwu District boasts not only some of the best hotel deals in the town, but it is also a premier area to explore sightseeing spots which you would not usually venture into. You can either have a bird eye view through the room window of your hotel, or take a good look up close and personal on a pleasurable stroll. Whatever your choice, the good spots are all within walking distance, and the area easy to navigate. In this short article, I will guide you through two of these, and we will discover some of the most precious religious architectures and relics this city can possibly offer.
Bai Yun Guan is a Taoist shrine built in 739 AD in Tang Dynasty, and Tian Ning Si is a Buddhist sanctuary constructed in Northern Wei Dynasty 1500 years ago. Though both are not well known touristic venues, each has a unique history and exceptional characteristics. They are the must-see places you cannot afford to miss around this area.
First, a Stroll by the Water
Simply take Subway line #1, and get off at the MUXIDI station. Use Exit D, and you will find yourself on FUXINGMEN WAIDAJIE (Fuxingmen Outer St.). Walk 50 meters east down the street, you will see an intersection with a street with no name, which locals usually call BINHELU, ¡®Street by the Water¡¯ -- as a river flows along the street. Turn left here, you are heading south.
Walking onward, your eyes will be riveted on this quiet and beautiful river, and its curvy willow branches swaying in the breeze. Dug out several hundred years ago, this waterway was a part of an overall aqueduct system meant to feed a nearby imperial garden lake with rivers from outside the city.
Stroll at your leisure by the water to admire the picturesque sceneries the river can offer. On a soothing afternoon, you will likely see the locals fishing, walking their dogs, or just strolling around. It is also a spot which lovers seek to schmooze on the waterside stairs. And if you are lucky, you may find some row boats there.
You will soon reach the intersection with BAIYUN Rd. Turn right, we are leaving the river, and heading toward a typical Beijing residential area. Some 200 meters down the road, in a bystreet on your left hand, appears a tall, antique archway quite apart in style from the high-rise surroundings. You are right, this is the 1000 year-old Baiyunguan Temple.
Purchase your ticket for RMB 10, and get in.
Bai Yun Guan (White Cloud Temple) ¨C Into the Taoist Spirit
An original Chinese religion which focused solely on ways to live infinitely, Taoism was greatly favored by the Tang emperors throughout the 7th century to the 10th century. During the reign of Emperor Xuan Zong, a temple was built in Beijing to house a statue of Lao Zi (or Lao Tsu), allegedly the founder of the Taoist religion, who lived several thousand years ago in legendary times. The temple was destroyed several times throughout history, until Genghis Khan ordered a large-scale reconstruction in 1224. For the next 700 years, the temple served as the supreme Taoist shrine, and received countless Taoist worshippers on a pilgrimage from all around the country.
Upon stepping in the temple, you cannot but be amazed at the variety of ancient halls which still are in good condition. It is interesting to take a hall-to-hall tour. Those halls are dedicated to various Taoist gods. Yu Huang Hall, for example, is the place where Yu Huang Da Di, the ¡®Ruler of Heaven¡¯, is worshipped. The Supreme God, according to Taoist belief, governs the people on Earth through other lower-ranked gods, and throws evil-doers into hell after their death. Lao Lv Tang, the ¡®Hall of Discipline¡¯, is where routine scripture reciting and ritual activities are held. Shush! Monks here do not like to be disturbed!
Qiu Chu Hall is dedicated to the most influential Taoist holy person: Qiu Chu Ji. It is probably the most important place in the shrine. Not only because the hall houses a giant, root-carved bowl --- a privileged symbol giving Taoist monks the right to ask for alms from emperors whenever they were in need, but also because Qiu is said to be buried in the hall itself.
Qiu lived in the 13th century, and was renowned for his wisdom in Taoism. Genghis Khan became one of his disciples. The Khan sought counsel from him to rule his kingdom better. Qiu advised him to show restraint in killing, and to soften his brutal ways for the benefit of his subjects.
The Temple houses numerous stone tablets, wall paintings, and exquisite sculptures. In the rear courtyard an incense-burning pot bearing a dragon sculpture dates back from the Ming dynasty. Visitors like to rub its head for good luck. God knows if the dragon appreciates it the same way!
In the west courtyard, a bronze ¡®Shen Te¡¯ has a donkey head, a mule body, and horse ears. The animal allegedly could cure any sickness you may have if you touch the corresponding part on its body. I wondered how this fable was born, but touched it anyways!
While strolling around the Temple, don¡¯t hesitate to burn joss sticks to show your respect. This too, could bring you blessings and good fortune. So they say.
After you tour, exit the temple, and return to BAIYUN Rd. Continue southward for 5 minutes from there to reach BAIYUN Bridge and the intersection with LIANHUACHI DONGLU. Turn left. While walking on the sidewalk, make sure to look up and seek for a grayish tower high up into the sky. This dominant architecture of the Tian Ning Si, our second stop on this walk, has embellished the skyline of ancient Beijing for over a thousand years. And few would walk past without glancing up.
As you go along your way, the street name soon changes to GUANGANMEN DONGBINHELU. Nothing special in this street, except for the ancient monastery which stands in a quiet bystreet, and which you can easily spot on the right after walking past two no-name alleyways.
Tian Ning Si (Temple of Heavenly Peace) ¨C A Buddhist Pagoda from the 11th century
A quiet temple with more historical character and less gawking tourists offers itself free for visiting. Some locals like to shoot the breeze on the square in front of the monastery. Others prefer to seat themselves on a stone bench, reading in peace.
It was one of the largest temples in the city at the time of its construction, but the monastery we see today is a pitiful fraction of its old structure. Many of its halls have been destroyed down the course of history; the remaining ones still serve the local Buddhist community. The Hall of Salvation houses a 9-meter-high sandalwood Buddhist carving, and in its shelter are said daily prayers and held routine ritual activities. In front of the hall stands a stone tablet from the mid-Qing Dynasty on which was recorded the imperial edict to restore the monastery.
The highlight here is undoubtedly the Buddhist Pagoda dating back over 10,000 years ago to the Liao Dynasty. Adorned by worshippers, the pagoda preserves some the Sarira of Buddha, the most sacred object in Buddhism. The tower, amazingly constructed with bricks, has 13 layers in total, measuring 57.8 meters in height. Despite hundreds of years of erosion, that the tower is still standing is a promise to all of a chance to see the ancient masterpiece. Not only is its structure in good shape, but the carvings and adornments on the base are also quite recognizable. The tower is now designated as one of the most protected national relics.
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